Waterlilies are fascinating pond plants for their delicate beauty and the joy they bring to the water garden. But did you know this treasured flower also carries spiritual history and significance? Often called the jewels of the water garden, waterlilies hold special meaning in Buddhism and Hinduism. In both of these religions, waterlilies symbolize resurrection because the flowers close at night and reopen in the morning. This act is symbolic of spiritual rebirth. Buddhists also feel that the waterlily represents enlightenment because the beautiful flowers rise from the mud. But that’s not the only historic or spiritual reference to the beautiful blooms. The root word for waterlily is Nymphaea, a Greek word that can be translated as nymph, or a feminine soul that lives in nature. Ancient Egypt prized waterlilies and believed they warded off dangerous spirits. In Christianity, the interlocking petals of the waterlily represent unity and life energy. In addition to its spiritual symbolism, waterlilies are wonderful flowers that are a favorite plant in ponds and lakes around the world. Waterlilies are available in both hardy and tropical types. Hardy waterlilies are perennials that can survive winter in gardening zones as low as 4 or 5. Tropical waterlilies will only survive year-round in warm and tropical zones. Most waterlilies bloom during the day; however, there are a few night-blooming tropical waterlilies that are truly magnificent. Hardy WaterliliesHardy waterlilies are mildly fragrant, day-blooming plants characterized by floating flowers and leaves. You’ll find them in shades of red, pink, yellow, peach, white, and changeable. A changeable waterlily generally starts out yellow, and over the next few days of blooming, slowly changes to a peach or light rose color, such as the Sioux waterlily. The vast majority of waterlilies in North America are hardy. Choosing the Right WaterlilyFirst, decide if you want a small, medium, or large plant. This not only refers to the size of leaves and flowers but also to the pond surface area taken up by a mature plant. For example, if you desire a red waterlily that’s medium in size, be sure the one you choose will do well in your climate. This is a factor with many deep red lilies such as ‘Almost Black’ which can “burn” in extreme southern summers and even turn black. The probable cause for this is its wild, red European ancestor that is not acclimated to southern heat. Safe red choices include ‘Laydekeri Fulgens,’ ‘Sultan,’ or ‘Perry’s Baby Red.’ Tropical WaterliliesThese gorgeous lilies are referred to as “tropicals” because they cannot survive northern winter weather. They’re basically the annuals in a northern water garden and will grace it with their beauty all summer and into the early fall season. In Phoenix, they may or may not survive the winter. If the water temperature drops below 40 degrees, this is usually fatal. Tropical waterlilies are desirably unique in several ways.
These are just some of the reasons why water gardeners opt for tropical waterlilies in their ponds. Choose a color and whether you want a day or night-blooming flower. Next year, you can enjoy a different variety. Keep in mind that night-bloomers tend to run considerably larger than their day-blooming counterparts, are rarely fragrant, and have limited colors from which to choose. Their main advantage is their flowering schedule which is perfect for people who work 9 to 5. Consider choosing both a day and night-blooming waterlily to keep constant color in your pond. Low Maintenance CharmersMaintenance of waterlilies – hardy or tropical – is minimal if you keep a few things in mind. First, waterlilies are voracious eaters and need plenty of fertilizer throughout the season if you want them to look their best. Choose fertilizer specific to pond plants and follow the package instructions. Don’t over-fertilize or you will end up with water quality issues. Once you have an established ecosystem, the fish waste generated should be enough to keep your waterlilies thriving, as long as the lilies are planted in the substrate of the pond and not contained in pots -- we haven't been able to figure out a way to train a koi to back up to a pot to poo. Next, waterlilies do not like moving water or water from a fountain or waterfall splashing on their leaves. Keep them at a slight distance from the waterfall and they should be fine. Also, protect their roots from your finned friends by placing 3-5” river rocks on top of the soil to deter the fish from rooting around at its base. Be sure to keep your koi properly fed so they don’t go looking for a snack from your lily. Finally, trim back dying leaves and faded blooms. Decaying leaves can add unnecessary nutrients to your pond water. By plucking faded blooms, the plant will put all its energy into new blooms instead of wasting energy on spent flowers. New waterlilies continue to be hybridized so keep your eyes open for new varieties that you might want to add to your water garden. The International Waterlily and Water Gardening Society holds an annual waterlily contest each year to encourage more research and experimentation with these stunning plants. Your waterlily options are almost endless. A terrific local resource for aquatic plants of all kinds is Arizona Water Garden Oasis in Tolleson, Arizona. Victoria Helton will hook you up! OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: One of the most confusing and intimidating aspects of caring for pond fish is the science of water quality and the pond nitrogen cycle. You may have heard horror stories about the constant monitoring of pond water just to make sure that the fish stay healthy. Unfortunately, these stories unnecessarily frighten people away from the joy of keeping fish. While pond water quality is important to the health of your fish, it doesn’t have to be complicated or scary. You don’t need to become obsessive with testing water quality, constantly adding chemicals, and doing things to make sure the water is pristine and perfect. There truly can be too much messing around with water. Keep it simple and your fish will thank you. Let’s look at the basic cycle of pond water and how it can affect your fish. The Importance of the Pond Nitrogen CycleThe nitrogen cycle is a natural process in which different types of beneficial bacteria break down compounds like ammonia and nitrite, reducing them to less harmful compounds like nitrate. This process occurs across three steps, from ammonia, to nitrite, to the final conversion into nitrate. The first process involves the accumulation of ammonia due to fish waste and decomposing material. As ammonia increases, Nitrosomonas bacteria start to consume it and break it down into nitrite. Once nitrite starts to accumulate, denitrifying bacteria break them down into nitrates. Nitrates are then removed from the system by plants, algae, or water changes. Because so many biological processes are required, it generally takes six to eight weeks for a pond system to run through the complete nitrogen cycle. Ammonia in the PondAmmonia is the main nitrogen waste from your fish, turtles, and other aquatic creatures, and functions as the start of nature’s nitrogen cycle. Did you know that ammonia is excreted partly by the fish’s kidneys, but mostly by the gills? This is relevant because it calls to mind the fact that if there is damage to a fish’s gills, the fish suffer more than just difficulty breathing. They could have trouble expelling their ammonia too. Constipation in any creature is not a happy place to be. High ammonia levels indicate that there are not enough beneficial nitrogen-reducing bacteria living in the pond yet. These bacteria proliferate over time, so ammonia problems are most common during the first six to eight weeks of a pond’s break-in period. Later, ammonia levels can climb again if the filter gets clogged up or a fish dies and starts decaying in the pond. You might see your fish “jumping” out of the pond when ammonia levels get high. This isn’t the only reason that fish jump, but it can be an indicator to just check for any issues. Control of ammonia involves reduced or suspended fish feedings, feeding low-protein food (33 percent or less), and/or upgrading your pond’s filtration. While water changes are the single best remedy for ammonia accumulations that threaten your fish, you can also use Ammonia Neutralizer. How Nitrite Affects Pond FishNitrite is produced from ammonia in the water by beneficial nitrogen-reducing bacteria. These bacteria cleave off ammonia’s hydrogen ions and replace them with oxygen. The pH of the water is then decreased by the release of these hydrogen ions. Your fish absorbs nitrites through the skin and gills. Inside the fish, nitrites bind the red blood cells, changing them from red to brown. Brown blood disease results from nitrite accumulations in the system. Nitrite is poisonous at levels as low as 0.1 ppm (parts per million), and fish that die from nitrite poisoning will commonly have flared gill covers. Nitrate: The Final ProductNitrate is the final product in the nitrogen cycle. Nitrites are broken down by another beneficial nitrogen-reducing bacteria and become nitrates. Plants and algae use nitrates, along with phosphates and iron, for cellular growth. When the nitrogen cycle is finished, you will see a sudden bloom of algae on the pond floor, or a green water explosion that obscures your view of the fish. This completion of the nitrogen cycle is typically a non-issue for fish health because fish aren’t harmed by acute or sudden exposure. However, with chronic, high levels of nitrate, you may notice weaker fish, slower growth, and increased illness overall. This is because high nitrate levels represent inferior water quality and this causes stress, making fish more vulnerable to disease. Nitrates should always be less than 80 ppm in an ornamental pond. To reduce nitrates, plants can be added, water changes can be performed, or algae growth can be encouraged. There are tremendous health benefits to a carpet of emerald-green algae on the pond bottom, the greatest of which is nutrition for the fish. This is why we always say that a little bit of algae is a good thing. Here at The Pond Gnome, we call it Pond Patina. Testing the pH of Your PondIn Arizona, this will drive you crazier than being put in a round room and told to sit in the corner. Our pH is very high, and oftentimes comes out of the tap at 9.0! Yep, we have very hard water here. Honestly, we don’t recommend worrying about or trying to affect the pH in your pond. But if you must… Testing water pH is simply a measurement of the free hydrogen ions (H+) in the pond. It is measured on a scale of one to fourteen with anything below seven being acidic and anything above seven being alkaline. The pH required for aquatic life ranges between 5.5 and 8.0. Koi and goldfish can tolerate a very high pH measurement. Some pond owners spend a lot of time trying to bring down the pH level, but this is unnecessary unless there is also ammonia accumulation in the pond. The toxicity of ammonia is influenced by pH, so at higher pH values, ammonia is more toxic. Below a pH of 7.2, most ammonia is ionized to ammonium and is far less toxic. The pH level in ponds impacts fish in several ways. First, if it is too low, a condition inside the fish called acidosis results. Symptoms are a loss of appetite and then production of excess slime, as well as isolation and resting on the bottom of the pond. This is followed by a streaking of the fins, and then death. If the pH is too high (over 10.0), the fish will produce excess slime and gasp at the surface of the water. This condition, called alkalosis, is hard to rapidly reverse once it occurs. A Word About Chlorine and ChloramineChlorine and chloramines are generally added to tap water by municipal water suppliers to make it safe to drink. However, these same compounds are toxic to fish and bacteria and can kill them if exposed for too long. Basically, the chlorine and chloramines burn and destroy the gills of the fish. De-chlorinators such as Pond Detoxifier remove and neutralize these chemicals and should be used whenever more than 10 to 15 percent of the pond’s total water volume is being added. The good news is that these chemicals evaporate out of the water fairly quickly on their own. The Final VerdictThe only way to know for sure what your pond is up to is to test the water for harmful compounds or changing parameters. There is no need to perform regular testing, however, especially if your fish level is low. We recommend stocking your pond with no more than one inch of fish per 10 gallons of water. You might want to test the water if you see your fish behaving or looking differently. A quick test can help you identify your next steps for encouraging a healthy environment for your finned friends. Granted, it may seem intimidating at first, but once you understand how to measure and control pond water factors, it becomes easy and starts to feel like second nature. The bottom line – healthy water equals healthy fish. OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: Who doesn’t love Koi in their pond? They’re beautiful and friendly, providing glimmers of color as they weave their way beneath and between the lily pads. Certainly, they deserve their rightful place in a tranquil water garden. But what about other options? An array of pond fish is just waiting to call your pond their home. GoldfishFantail Goldfish are perfect for your pond: resilient and able to handle all different kinds of water. For the newbie pond owner, goldfish are a great choice for getting started with fish-keeping. Several varieties of goldfish are available, from comets (plain orange and white) to the exotics like ranchus and bubble-eyes. Exotic GoldfishIncluded in this showy category are lion heads, telescopes, black moors, orandas, ranchus, and ryukins. The single most distinguishing characteristic of this group as a whole, is their round, bulbous abdomens. OrandaWith this exotic group, extra caution should be taken if they are going to be placed outdoors. They’re not as hardy as some of the other goldfish. This is especially true of the adults of these varieties. ShubunkinsThe shubunkin is a type of single-tailed, long-bodied goldfish that originated in China. There are two different types of shubunkins. One has a long tail fin, with broad tail fin lobes that are rounded on the end. The other one looks more like a common goldfish, with a short tail fin. Bred mainly for their coloring, shubunkins often have a red, black, and sky-blue coloring, sort of like a calico. The most valuable of the shubunkins are mostly blue with strong accents of white and red, and the overall pattern sparingly flecked with black. In fact, when blessed with a white, black, and orange pattern, some may resemble baby Koi but are far from it. They are different in size and markings. Most notably, they lack barbells (whiskers of sorts) that are found on Koi. Shubunkins are hardy fish that can survive sweltering summers and can grow up to 14 inches in a minimum 180-gallon pond. SarassasSarassas are very similar to shubunkins in that they both have a similar body shape; however, they do not quite reach the same size as their larger shubunkin counterparts. The sarassa features a white base color and brilliant red highlights. It is believed that they came from a cross between the red cap oranda and the comet goldfish and are sometimes referred to as the poor man’s Koi. Amazingly, the brilliant red of the true sarassa is a lifelong proposition and the fish are very enjoyable. Uncontrolled breeding of the sarassa will yield more and more brown fish until the pond population has returned to unselected comet and brown goldfish ancestry. OrfesThere are also some fish, which you may have never heard of, that would make great pond fish. Orfes, for example, call many a backyard pond home. In its native habitat, the Danube River, the golden orfe is a dark silvery color, but received its golden color when bred in Europe. The bright orange color is very attractive, especially since they characteristically swim near the surface of most ponds with the rest of their group. This is helpful because their presence near the top of the pond can also encourage Koi and other goldfish to visit the surface of the water as well. One thing to keep in mind is that golden orfe grow extremely fast. A 2 to 3-inch golden orfe can quickly reach sizes of 2 to 2½ feet! While golden orfe feed mostly on insect larvae, worms, and fallen insects, they are derived from the predatory side (in their original silver color) and could pose a risk to the rest of the aquatic life, although it is unlikely. Orfe are highly sensitive to fish medications of most kinds, and extreme care must be taken. CatfishCatfish are another popular fish seen in the water garden. They are commonly sold as scavengers to help clean up the pond, but they really don’t do that much of it. Caution should be taken with these fish because they can become quite large in a short period of time. When they become large, they can cause trouble because they may start eating whatever they can fit in their mouth – including other fish! Learning about FishGetting to know the background of the pond fish you plan to keep as pets is vital to their survival and your sanity. By knowing their defining characteristics, you will have a thorough understanding of how the fish will interact in your pond with other fish, plants, and aquatic life. Other Fish You May Want to Research:
So, who is ready to “dive” into the wonderful world of pond fish beyond Koi? Don’t have a pond yet? We can help with that! OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY:
Unveiling the Enchantment: The Perfect Harmony of Design and Ecosystem for a Beautiful Pond7/15/2023
There's something truly captivating about a beautiful pond that draws us into its tranquil embrace. Whether nestled in a garden or gracing a grand estate, these shimmering water bodies have an inherent allure that seems to enchant us effortlessly. But have you ever wondered what creates this magical ambiance? Delving into the world of ponds, we discover that the secret lies in the art of design and the delicate balance of an ecosystem. Join us on a journey to unravel the mystique of a stunning pond, guided by the expertise and insights shared by The Pond Gnome, a premier Arizona resource for all things aquatic. The Art of Pond DesignThe Pond Gnome emphasizes that the magic of a beautiful pond originates from a well-thought-out design. Just like an artist's canvas, every pond presents an opportunity to create a unique masterpiece. From the shape and size to the positioning and materials used, every element plays a vital role in sculpting the final outcome. The shape of the pond is crucial, with curves to mimic the organic flow of nature. A naturalistic design allows for a more harmonious integration with the surrounding environment, enabling the pond to blend seamlessly into its surroundings. Elements of a Balanced EcosystemA visually stunning pond extends beyond aesthetics; it nurtures a thriving ecosystem supporting diverse aquatic life. The Pond Gnome highlights the significance of establishing a balanced ecosystem, ensuring the longevity and health of the pond's inhabitants. Water quality stands as the cornerstone of a thriving ecosystem. Proper filtration systems, such as biological and mechanical filters, are employed to achieve this. These mechanisms, together with natural water treatments, work together to eliminate debris, excess nutrients, and harmful substances, resulting in crystal-clear water. Aquatic plants are another vital component. They provide oxygen, compete with algae for nutrients, and offer shelter for fish and other aquatic organisms. By selecting a mix of floating, submerged, and marginal plants, the pond gains a harmonious balance of oxygenation and visual appeal. The Role of Fish and WildlifeThe inclusion of fish in a pond adds a captivating dimension and completes the overall ecosystem. Koi and goldfish are popular choices due to their vibrant colors and graceful movements. Fish contribute to the ecological balance by consuming algae and insect larvae, thus reducing the risk of imbalances within the pond. Additionally, attracting and supporting wildlife in and around the pond further enriches the ecosystem, not to mention establishing integrated pest management. Dragonflies, frogs, turtles, and birds create a dynamic environment, adding life and intrigue to the pond. Many creatures attracted to a pond also contribute to maintaining a balanced insect population, fostering a natural harmony within the ecosystem. Maintenance and CareTo maintain the enchantment of a beautiful pond, regular maintenance and care are essential. The Pond Gnome advises routine tasks such as removing excess debris, checking and cleaning filters, and ensuring proper water levels. Careful monitoring of water quality parameters, such as ammonia content, is vital to prevent imbalances that could harm the ecosystem. A beautiful pond is not merely a visual delight but a testament to the symbiotic relationship between design and ecosystem. The Pond Gnome's expertise reveals that every aspect, from the initial design to the nurturing of a balanced ecosystem, contributes to the allure and longevity of a stunning water feature. By appreciating the magic that arises from a good design and ecosystem balance, we gain a deeper understanding and admiration for the artistry of ponds. So, let the beauty of a well-crafted pond inspire you to have The Pond Gnome create your own aquatic masterpiece, merging art and nature in perfect harmony. OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY:
For many pond owners, having fish in their pond is the main reason for creating a water feature in the first place. Plenty of pond owners have been keeping aquarium fish for years and decide to expand their hobby to the outdoors. Others see fish as a beautiful addition to their water garden. No matter your motive for owning pond fish, you’ll enjoy this satisfying hobby for years to come. You might be surprised at the affinity you acquire for your fish and find them to be just as important as a pet dog or cat. You may even decide to name them! And just like your furry friends, your finned friends need a little special care and should be given proper nutrition to survive and thrive. Learn what you need to know about feeding koi and pond fish. To Feed or Not to FeedFeeding koi is a fun activity that the whole family can enjoy. After you first bring your fish home, they’ll be a little shy and won’t seem interested in what you’re feeding them. They might even hide among the rocks and caves for quite a while. Don’t worry too much about this; just sprinkle a little food in the pond and move back. After a few minutes, they’ll likely take an interest in the food. Try to be consistent when feeding. Feed them at the same time from the same location and they’ll become conditioned to your visits. Since everything you put into the pond is going to be broken down and removed by the filter, it’s important to remember to only feed your fish high-quality food that is specifically designed for the fish in your pond. Feeding them low-quality food can lead to water quality issues like green water, string algae, and poor water conditions. Many pond owners also choose to offer their fish a treat now and again. If you want to do the same, try a little fresh watermelon and watch your fish go crazy. Other options include small orange slices like mandarin oranges or Honey Nut Cheerios. Keep in mind that the natural ecosystem has to deal with every bit of food that’s not consumed and left in the pond. So, be careful not to overfeed. Two Minute RuleA good rule of thumb is to only offer what your koi and other pond fish can eat in two minutes. The decision to feed your fish is up to you. Many pond owners never throw a single piece of food into their pond. Your pond will produce food for your fish to eat and also help create a balance between plants and fish. Larger fish, however, need more food than small ones, so they may look to your plants for snacks if not fed enough. Not to mention, feeding koi and pond fish adds fun and enjoyment to your life. Choosing the Best FoodStudies have been done comparing the digestion of protein from various sources in fish and found that fish proteins were the best digested and assimilated by fish. Simply put, fish eat fish. Fish are adapted to the consumption of others in their food chain, so fish proteins are the best choice of food. When you look at a bag of fish food, the first ingredient listed should be fish or other aquaculture proteins. Are Plant Proteins Bad?Plant proteins aren’t necessarily bad when feeding koi and pond fish. They provide other nutritional value such as fiber, plant protein, and carbohydrates (energy). Plant proteins shouldn’t replace aquaculture proteins, but when used in conjunction with each other, it’s beneficial because proteins in corn, soy, or wheat are very different from proteins in a food ingredient like shrimp or blood meal. So, you might see fishmeal listed as the first ingredient, and then wheat germ, soybean meal, or corn gluten meal lower on the list. This is perfectly acceptable and nutritious. Assessing an Ingredient LabelIngredient labels can be very exciting, or very misleading. They can be exciting because they seem to report excellent ingredients and real care and attention in manufacturing. Misleading labels use techniques like ingredient-splitting and foreign laws to confuse the consumer. So let’s assess a label together in nine steps: Protein source – Look for blood meal, fish meal, squid meal, shrimp meal, herring meal, or other aquaculture protein as the first ingredients. These are the best protein sources for fish. Purpose of plant material – If you find a food that has no aquaculture protein, but two plant proteins, then the manufacturer is trying to get less expensive plant ingredients to do what fishmeal should be doing. But, if you find a food with fishmeal as the first ingredient and then wheat germ or similar, they are using the plant ingredient for protein and energy, letting the fishmeal carry the bulk of the protein requirement, which is as it should be. Protein percent – Because of the simplicity and shortness of the tract, koi can’t digest more than 32 to 36 percent protein in one pass. Feeding more than that isn’t necessarily a bad thing because fish will simply pass what they don’t digest – it’s just expensive to pay for it. Fat content – Find a fish food with between three and ten percent crude fat. The high end of this range is good for smaller (young) fish, and the lower end of the range is good for adult fish. Ascorbic acid – Make sure ascorbic acid, or L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate is on the label among the trailing ingredients. It will represent a very small part of the diet, but it should be added to any milled food. Immune boosters – Some foods are made with immune boosters. Look for any combination of the following supposed immune-boosting ingredients: optimum, aquagen, nucleotides, torula yeast, brewer’s yeast, bee propolis, colostrum, aspergillus niger, beta carotene, lactoferrin. These may perform as promised, and certainly don’t hurt, but don’t depend on any particular ingredient as a miracle supplement or lifesaver. Just recognize that the addition of these items represents the manufacturer as a little more attentive and knowledgeable, and the food worth a little extra money. Color enhancers – Are there color enhancers in the diet? Look for terms like spirulina, bio-red, beta carotene, canthaxanthin, marigold petals, xanthins, shrimp oil, synthetic and non-synthetic carotenoids, or color enhancers on the label. Shrimp oil is the most expensive and performs well or better than synthetic carotenoids but is acceptable. Spirulina cannot push color unless the fish are exposed to sunlight and have the genetics for color. None of these color enhancers are hazardous to fish, but they can make a fish with a yellow head more yellow, or a fish with a tendency towards pink, pinker. No color enhancer can replace the irrefutable contribution of genetics and sunlight. Ash content (if stated) – Some fish food manufacturers will tell you the “crap” content of their food. Ash is what’s left behind when you incinerate (or the fish digests) the food. It’s almost all carbon and mineral. So, the higher the ash content, the less likely one is to appreciate it. Generally, when ash is high, a smart label guy would just leave it off, and they are allowed to skip this information because it’s not required on fish food bags. Because your finned friends live in a manmade water garden, they depend on you for proper nutrition and sustenance. Learning how to shop for the best quality food, the proper time to feed them, and what treats they enjoy can ensure your friends stay healthy and increase your enjoyment of your backyard pond. Now that you know the basics of feeding koi, you can enjoy your fish for many years to come. OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: |
The Pond Gnome offers Pond Design, Pond Construction, Pond Maintenance, Pond Remodeling, Pond Replacement, and Pond Cleaning Services for the Greater Phoenix Metropolitan area, including the cities of Phoenix, Scottsdale, Paradise Valley, Carefree, Cave Creek, Glendale, Peoria, Sun City, and other surrounding communities.
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