Are you considering building a pond? How tough can it really be, right? If you're going to do it yourself, here are 10 common mistakes that you can avoid with a little preparation. Remember: Proper Preparation Prevents Piss-Poor Performance. Poor LocationStarting with the design of the pond, Phoenix homeowners too often place their DIY pond in an unused area of the property or in a low spot that collects water. Both of these locations cause problems. Unused areas of the landscape are unused for a reason and it's a waste to put a key focal-point feature in an area that won't be seen regularly. Out of sight, out of mind … meaning nobody will care for it. Low spots that collect water are challenging to build in (high water table) and water quality can suffer from too much runoff and pollutants entering the pond system. Rainwater harvesting and stormwater management in Phoenix are completely separate conversations from a simple fish pond. Underestimating LaborUnderestimating the amount of physical work involved with a pond installation is very common. As professional pond contractors, we are regularly asked to complete ponds in Phoenix that are partially excavated by a homeowner. Unless you dig for a living, it's tougher than you think! Proper pond excavation is something that needs to be thought out carefully to provide shelves and pockets for plants. If you just dig a hole and slap some rubber or plastic down, it's technically a pond, but you may not like the ramifications of doing it that way. Creating Steep SidesAnd speaking of excavation, digging a deep bowl with no provisions for shallow areas makes stacking stones on the inside of the pond in Phoenix very difficult. And they won't stay put, either. The stacking would be unstable and since there aren’t shallow areas, it is difficult and dangerous to get in and out of the pond for maintenance. Plus, there's no place or ledges for aquatic plants, the majority of which grow in less than 12" of water, even in Phoenix. Too ShallowA shallow pond in Phoenix is obviously easier to dig than a deeper one, but if it’s not deep enough, the fish won’t be able to over-winter in the northern part of Arizona. And if you live in the central or southern area, your pond won’t stay cool if it’s too shallow. Fish don’t like hot ponds in Phoenix! 18" is the least amount of finished depth (after the rocks and gravel have been installed) that you want in Phoenix, and that's for goldfish. Koi need a bit more elbow room, and we recommend 24" minimum depth. Lack of LedgesA common mistake is when the pond is excavated in a bowl fashion, with gently sloping sides that get deeper towards the middle. This is difficult to disguise with rock since gravel will slide towards the deep area and boulders take up too much room. This will cause an unstable build and is a recipe for disaster and potential injury when maintaining the pond. Improper Use of Rock and StoneAn installed pond in Phoenix is enhanced with rock to give it a desirable natural-looking appearance; a typical feature will use several tons of stone. That can be a lot of wear and tear on the family minivan, and it needs to be moved and stacked properly for stability. Many do-it-yourselfers will decide this is too much work and they'll choose small, manageable stones that are easy to move and stack. While the work might be easier, this results in the pond falling short of aesthetics. Also, the pond loses the structural stability provided by the larger, more difficult-to-move boulders. In some cases, the novice pond installer will just eliminate the stonework altogether, which then eliminates the natural-looking feel that was the goal at the onset of the project. Without rock and gravel, the system fails to function properly because stone not only lends to the aesthetics of the feature, but also functions as a habitat for colonization by a variety of beneficial organisms from bacteria to crustaceans… all critical to the success of a natural-looking, organic ecosystem pond. Too SmallAgain, a small pond is easier to construct (less digging and rock placement) but it’s actually harder to maintain. A small feature is less stable than a larger volume of water, and most people end up making the water garden larger later down the road because they not only love it but their plants and fish outgrow a small feature. And then you'll need to decide whether to simply live with what you've created with all that blood, sweat, and tears, or to do it all over again. Lack of Proper FiltrationConsumer thought is that real lakes, rivers, and streams function without pumps and filters, so why does their backyard pond need it? Well, that’s not even a close comparison because it’s completely different hydrology. Do-it-yourselfers sometimes purchase inadequate filters or will purchase components “a la carte.” It may be cheaper to purchase the items piecemeal, but it's challenging because different manufacturers use different fittings, and now you need to "McGuiver" things to work together, versus having everything designed to work as a unit from the get-go. Efficiency and simplicity will create a better system for your pond. Poor Access/Staging AreaBefore you get started, think about where to place your rock and gravel when it’s delivered, or where you want to place the dirt during excavation. Poor planning can lead to having little to no room to get in and out of the property during the construction process, potential tripping hazards, etc. Improper Berm Size for WaterfallsIf the mound or berm area for the waterfall is too small or too steep, then the waterfall will look out of place and more like a volcano than a waterfall. The berm and waterfall need to be scaled according to the size of the property and the feature. Many people want a big waterfall that looks and sounds great, but it can become difficult and expensive to build, and it can overpower the space you have set aside for your pond. The waterfall needs to fit with the property and lifestyle of the pond owner -- and, just as important, the pond needs to be large enough to contain the splash generated by the waterfall: splash width is two times the height of the fall. There are more tricks of the trade, of course, but we don't want to give away ALL of our secrets! MORE POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY:Did you know that fish possess body language? If you familiarize yourself with the good body language in fish, you’ll be able to also recognize bad fish body language. Then you’ll be able to diagnose and treat your fish before any illness or situation becomes too severe. Let’s first take a look at good body language in your pond fish:
Some examples of bad fish body language include:
Loss of appetiteWhen fish lose their appetite, numerous possibilities loom but without any additional symptoms, you could suspect some deterioration in water quality. In particular, warm water with low oxygen adversely affects fish appetites, which you’ll typically see during the hottest summer months. In ponds that are more than four feet deep and without water movement in the deeper areas, the oxygen levels sag, which can result in suffering fish. In either situation, adding an aerator to boost oxygen levels in the pond could be a simple fix. Fish may also lose their appetite if nitrogen is imbalanced. When the nitrate levels climb in established ponds, fish will lose their appetite. A quick water test will let you know if nitrate is to blame. If nitrate is ruled out, then it could be a parasite problem. You’ll also notice a loss in appetite when the pond water temperature falls below 68 degrees Fahrenheit, which is normal. Clamped finsWhen fish hold their fins close to their body, it’s a symptom of illness. Poor water quality and parasites are the likely culprits. Fish with clamped fins look like a fish with only a tail because all the other fins are pulled in close to the body. The fish may just rest on the bottom of the pond with its fins clamped. An assessment of water quality is the place to start. If nothing is found, the fish likely has a parasite that needs to be addressed (see how to identify and treat fish parasites). Resting on the bottomA common sign of illness is when the fish rests on the bottom of the pond. The most common cause of this bad fish body language is high water temperatures, high nitrates, and low oxygen levels. Parasites could also be the cause. Test the water, and if nothing is found, you’ve probably got a parasite issue. Laying on the bottomThis behavior is slightly different because the fish will lay on the bottom of the pond on its side. This is a sign of severe, life-threatening stress. Usually, very cold water is the cause of this bad body language. Water quality and overwhelming parasitism can also cause this. Stiff swimming with clamped finsStiff swimming is a serious sign in fish and almost always points to poor water quality, but the most common cause is parasitism, which is then swinging into a full-blown bacterial infection. Start by testing the water, and if nothing is found, a biopsy can be conducted to confirm the presence of parasites. You can also closely check the gills of your fish for signs of bacterial infection. Piping at the pond surfaceWhen fish are gasping at the surface of the pond, it’s highly illustrative of two things. Either the pond water doesn’t have enough oxygen in it, or the fish can’t get that oxygen because its gills are being wrecked by something. Adding an aerator typically alleviates this problem but if it doesn’t, you likely have a parasite problem. Less active or floating in waterLess activity isn’t necessarily a sign of illness, but you’ll want to keep some things in mind. Low oxygen levels can cause the fish to resist higher activity and foraging behaviors. This would be especially true if the listless less active fish are the larger ones whose oxygen demand is higher. Warm water carries less oxygen and if the pond is warm and there’s minimal water turnover from a waterfall or aerator, this could be a contributor. Adding a pond aerator will remedy this problem within four to six hours. If the fish becomes actively engaged again, you’ve solved the problem. If not, suspect the presence of a parasite. Flashing behaviorFlashing, or scratching, is bad body language when it’s common among your fish. It’s not uncommon to see a fish flash or scratch on the pond bottom of other submerged ornamentation. This isn’t considered a problem. However, if you see many fish scratching or flashing every hour, that would be bad body language and considered a problem. Flashing can be caused by several things, but your main suspects are the pH level of the pond or a parasite. Once you become familiar with good and bad body language in your pond fish, you’ll be better equipped to remedy any negative situation and provide them with a healthy, happy home. OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: Nature has a way of captivating young minds with its wonders. Ecosystem ponds, teeming with life, provide a fantastic opportunity for children to connect with the natural world right in their own backyards or local parks. While observing and learning about fish, frogs, and plants are typical activities, there are unconventional and creative ways for children to engage with living ecosystem ponds that can spark their curiosity and foster a lifelong love for nature. In this blog, we'll explore some unique ideas to make the experience of interacting with a pond even more magical. SCREEN VS. NATUREKids won’t remember their best day in front of a TV, keyboard, or sitting through a lecture. Kids under 15 struggle to sit still in a classroom setting. Instead, imagine their teacher taking the students out to a wildlife habitat with a pond, and how much more involved the student could be in the lesson. If that teacher were to assign small teams to determine the surface area of the pond and stream, the volume, or the circumference, what would be the increase in number of students that would understand and retain these skills? There’s math. A similar case can also be made for art, statistics, biology, life sciences, philosophy, and more. And that’s just a few ideas based on a standard curriculum. Here are some more unconventional ways that a living ecosystem water feature could be used to enhance a child’s learning. pond poetry cornerEncourage your children to create poetry inspired by the pond's ecosystem. Have them sit by the water, observe the movements of aquatic life, and let their imagination flow. Poetry can be a wonderful way for children to express their observations, emotions, and connections to nature. You might be surprised by the depth and creativity that emerges from their verses. UNDERWATER ART GALLERYCombine art with science by giving your children a waterproof sketchbook and some underwater drawing materials. Encourage them to explore the underwater world, sketch the fish, plants, and even the play of sunlight on the water's surface. These sketches can serve as a personal record of their pond adventures. POND-SIDE STORYTELLINGCreate a storytelling circle by the pond where your children can share their own or each other's imaginative stories about the pond's inhabitants. Encourage them to give each creature a name and a unique personality. This activity not only enhances their creativity but also deepens their understanding of the ecosystem's interconnectedness. aquatic nature scavenger huntDesign a scavenger hunt with clues that lead your children to different aspects of the pond ecosystem. Include tasks like finding a water beetle, observing a frog's croak, or identifying a specific aquatic plant. This activity makes learning about the pond's inhabitants an exciting adventure. SOUNDSCAPES OF THE PONDHelp your children create an audio recording of the pond's soundscape. Use a simple audio recorder or even a smartphone to capture the sounds of birds, frogs, and the gentle spill of the waterfall or babble of the brook. Later, you can listen to the recordings together and discuss the different sounds and what they mean for the ecosystem. BUILD A MINIATURE ECOSYSTEMTake a creative twist on the traditional terrarium by building a miniature pond ecosystem in a clear glass container. Your child can learn about the delicate balance of aquatic life and the importance of maintaining it while having a hands-on experience. Add small aquatic plants and microorganisms to replicate a self-sustaining ecosystem. POND THEATER PRODUCTIONSEncourage your children to stage their own mini-plays or puppet shows based on pond life. They can create their own costumes and props, and even write a script that incorporates facts about the ecosystem. This not only fosters creativity but also helps them retain knowledge about the pond's inhabitants. Interacting with a living ecosystem pond can be a magical and educational experience for children. By incorporating these unconventional ideas into their pond adventures, you can inspire a deeper appreciation for nature and foster their creativity. Whether they're composing poetry, sketching underwater scenes, or staging pond-inspired plays, these activities will help children form a unique bond with their local pond, igniting their curiosity and nurturing their connection to the natural world. So, go ahead and explore the endless possibilities of engaging with a living ecosystem pond! OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: Waterlilies are fascinating pond plants for their delicate beauty and the joy they bring to the water garden. But did you know this treasured flower also carries spiritual history and significance? Often called the jewels of the water garden, waterlilies hold special meaning in Buddhism and Hinduism. In both of these religions, waterlilies symbolize resurrection because the flowers close at night and reopen in the morning. This act is symbolic of spiritual rebirth. Buddhists also feel that the waterlily represents enlightenment because the beautiful flowers rise from the mud. But that’s not the only historic or spiritual reference to the beautiful blooms. The root word for waterlily is Nymphaea, a Greek word that can be translated as nymph, or a feminine soul that lives in nature. Ancient Egypt prized waterlilies and believed they warded off dangerous spirits. In Christianity, the interlocking petals of the waterlily represent unity and life energy. In addition to its spiritual symbolism, waterlilies are wonderful flowers that are a favorite plant in ponds and lakes around the world. Waterlilies are available in both hardy and tropical types. Hardy waterlilies are perennials that can survive winter in gardening zones as low as 4 or 5. Tropical waterlilies will only survive year-round in warm and tropical zones. Most waterlilies bloom during the day; however, there are a few night-blooming tropical waterlilies that are truly magnificent. Hardy WaterliliesHardy waterlilies are mildly fragrant, day-blooming plants characterized by floating flowers and leaves. You’ll find them in shades of red, pink, yellow, peach, white, and changeable. A changeable waterlily generally starts out yellow, and over the next few days of blooming, slowly changes to a peach or light rose color, such as the Sioux waterlily. The vast majority of waterlilies in North America are hardy. Choosing the Right WaterlilyFirst, decide if you want a small, medium, or large plant. This not only refers to the size of leaves and flowers but also to the pond surface area taken up by a mature plant. For example, if you desire a red waterlily that’s medium in size, be sure the one you choose will do well in your climate. This is a factor with many deep red lilies such as ‘Almost Black’ which can “burn” in extreme southern summers and even turn black. The probable cause for this is its wild, red European ancestor that is not acclimated to southern heat. Safe red choices include ‘Laydekeri Fulgens,’ ‘Sultan,’ or ‘Perry’s Baby Red.’ Tropical WaterliliesThese gorgeous lilies are referred to as “tropicals” because they cannot survive northern winter weather. They’re basically the annuals in a northern water garden and will grace it with their beauty all summer and into the early fall season. In Phoenix, they may or may not survive the winter. If the water temperature drops below 40 degrees, this is usually fatal. Tropical waterlilies are desirably unique in several ways.
These are just some of the reasons why water gardeners opt for tropical waterlilies in their ponds. Choose a color and whether you want a day or night-blooming flower. Next year, you can enjoy a different variety. Keep in mind that night-bloomers tend to run considerably larger than their day-blooming counterparts, are rarely fragrant, and have limited colors from which to choose. Their main advantage is their flowering schedule which is perfect for people who work 9 to 5. Consider choosing both a day and night-blooming waterlily to keep constant color in your pond. Low Maintenance CharmersMaintenance of waterlilies – hardy or tropical – is minimal if you keep a few things in mind. First, waterlilies are voracious eaters and need plenty of fertilizer throughout the season if you want them to look their best. Choose fertilizer specific to pond plants and follow the package instructions. Don’t over-fertilize or you will end up with water quality issues. Once you have an established ecosystem, the fish waste generated should be enough to keep your waterlilies thriving, as long as the lilies are planted in the substrate of the pond and not contained in pots -- we haven't been able to figure out a way to train a koi to back up to a pot to poo. Next, waterlilies do not like moving water or water from a fountain or waterfall splashing on their leaves. Keep them at a slight distance from the waterfall and they should be fine. Also, protect their roots from your finned friends by placing 3-5” river rocks on top of the soil to deter the fish from rooting around at its base. Be sure to keep your koi properly fed so they don’t go looking for a snack from your lily. Finally, trim back dying leaves and faded blooms. Decaying leaves can add unnecessary nutrients to your pond water. By plucking faded blooms, the plant will put all its energy into new blooms instead of wasting energy on spent flowers. New waterlilies continue to be hybridized so keep your eyes open for new varieties that you might want to add to your water garden. The International Waterlily and Water Gardening Society holds an annual waterlily contest each year to encourage more research and experimentation with these stunning plants. Your waterlily options are almost endless. A terrific local resource for aquatic plants of all kinds is Arizona Water Garden Oasis in Tolleson, Arizona. Victoria Helton will hook you up! OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: One of the most confusing and intimidating aspects of caring for pond fish is the science of water quality and the pond nitrogen cycle. You may have heard horror stories about the constant monitoring of pond water just to make sure that the fish stay healthy. Unfortunately, these stories unnecessarily frighten people away from the joy of keeping fish. While pond water quality is important to the health of your fish, it doesn’t have to be complicated or scary. You don’t need to become obsessive with testing water quality, constantly adding chemicals, and doing things to make sure the water is pristine and perfect. There truly can be too much messing around with water. Keep it simple and your fish will thank you. Let’s look at the basic cycle of pond water and how it can affect your fish. The Importance of the Pond Nitrogen CycleThe nitrogen cycle is a natural process in which different types of beneficial bacteria break down compounds like ammonia and nitrite, reducing them to less harmful compounds like nitrate. This process occurs across three steps, from ammonia, to nitrite, to the final conversion into nitrate. The first process involves the accumulation of ammonia due to fish waste and decomposing material. As ammonia increases, Nitrosomonas bacteria start to consume it and break it down into nitrite. Once nitrite starts to accumulate, denitrifying bacteria break them down into nitrates. Nitrates are then removed from the system by plants, algae, or water changes. Because so many biological processes are required, it generally takes six to eight weeks for a pond system to run through the complete nitrogen cycle. Ammonia in the PondAmmonia is the main nitrogen waste from your fish, turtles, and other aquatic creatures, and functions as the start of nature’s nitrogen cycle. Did you know that ammonia is excreted partly by the fish’s kidneys, but mostly by the gills? This is relevant because it calls to mind the fact that if there is damage to a fish’s gills, the fish suffer more than just difficulty breathing. They could have trouble expelling their ammonia too. Constipation in any creature is not a happy place to be. High ammonia levels indicate that there are not enough beneficial nitrogen-reducing bacteria living in the pond yet. These bacteria proliferate over time, so ammonia problems are most common during the first six to eight weeks of a pond’s break-in period. Later, ammonia levels can climb again if the filter gets clogged up or a fish dies and starts decaying in the pond. You might see your fish “jumping” out of the pond when ammonia levels get high. This isn’t the only reason that fish jump, but it can be an indicator to just check for any issues. Control of ammonia involves reduced or suspended fish feedings, feeding low-protein food (33 percent or less), and/or upgrading your pond’s filtration. While water changes are the single best remedy for ammonia accumulations that threaten your fish, you can also use Ammonia Neutralizer. How Nitrite Affects Pond FishNitrite is produced from ammonia in the water by beneficial nitrogen-reducing bacteria. These bacteria cleave off ammonia’s hydrogen ions and replace them with oxygen. The pH of the water is then decreased by the release of these hydrogen ions. Your fish absorbs nitrites through the skin and gills. Inside the fish, nitrites bind the red blood cells, changing them from red to brown. Brown blood disease results from nitrite accumulations in the system. Nitrite is poisonous at levels as low as 0.1 ppm (parts per million), and fish that die from nitrite poisoning will commonly have flared gill covers. Nitrate: The Final ProductNitrate is the final product in the nitrogen cycle. Nitrites are broken down by another beneficial nitrogen-reducing bacteria and become nitrates. Plants and algae use nitrates, along with phosphates and iron, for cellular growth. When the nitrogen cycle is finished, you will see a sudden bloom of algae on the pond floor, or a green water explosion that obscures your view of the fish. This completion of the nitrogen cycle is typically a non-issue for fish health because fish aren’t harmed by acute or sudden exposure. However, with chronic, high levels of nitrate, you may notice weaker fish, slower growth, and increased illness overall. This is because high nitrate levels represent inferior water quality and this causes stress, making fish more vulnerable to disease. Nitrates should always be less than 80 ppm in an ornamental pond. To reduce nitrates, plants can be added, water changes can be performed, or algae growth can be encouraged. There are tremendous health benefits to a carpet of emerald-green algae on the pond bottom, the greatest of which is nutrition for the fish. This is why we always say that a little bit of algae is a good thing. Here at The Pond Gnome, we call it Pond Patina. Testing the pH of Your PondIn Arizona, this will drive you crazier than being put in a round room and told to sit in the corner. Our pH is very high, and oftentimes comes out of the tap at 9.0! Yep, we have very hard water here. Honestly, we don’t recommend worrying about or trying to affect the pH in your pond. But if you must… Testing water pH is simply a measurement of the free hydrogen ions (H+) in the pond. It is measured on a scale of one to fourteen with anything below seven being acidic and anything above seven being alkaline. The pH required for aquatic life ranges between 5.5 and 8.0. Koi and goldfish can tolerate a very high pH measurement. Some pond owners spend a lot of time trying to bring down the pH level, but this is unnecessary unless there is also ammonia accumulation in the pond. The toxicity of ammonia is influenced by pH, so at higher pH values, ammonia is more toxic. Below a pH of 7.2, most ammonia is ionized to ammonium and is far less toxic. The pH level in ponds impacts fish in several ways. First, if it is too low, a condition inside the fish called acidosis results. Symptoms are a loss of appetite and then production of excess slime, as well as isolation and resting on the bottom of the pond. This is followed by a streaking of the fins, and then death. If the pH is too high (over 10.0), the fish will produce excess slime and gasp at the surface of the water. This condition, called alkalosis, is hard to rapidly reverse once it occurs. A Word About Chlorine and ChloramineChlorine and chloramines are generally added to tap water by municipal water suppliers to make it safe to drink. However, these same compounds are toxic to fish and bacteria and can kill them if exposed for too long. Basically, the chlorine and chloramines burn and destroy the gills of the fish. De-chlorinators such as Pond Detoxifier remove and neutralize these chemicals and should be used whenever more than 10 to 15 percent of the pond’s total water volume is being added. The good news is that these chemicals evaporate out of the water fairly quickly on their own. The Final VerdictThe only way to know for sure what your pond is up to is to test the water for harmful compounds or changing parameters. There is no need to perform regular testing, however, especially if your fish level is low. We recommend stocking your pond with no more than one inch of fish per 10 gallons of water. You might want to test the water if you see your fish behaving or looking differently. A quick test can help you identify your next steps for encouraging a healthy environment for your finned friends. Granted, it may seem intimidating at first, but once you understand how to measure and control pond water factors, it becomes easy and starts to feel like second nature. The bottom line – healthy water equals healthy fish. OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: |
The Pond Gnome offers Pond Design, Pond Construction, Pond Maintenance, Pond Remodeling, Pond Replacement, and Pond Cleaning Services for the Greater Phoenix Metropolitan area, including the cities of Phoenix, Scottsdale, Paradise Valley, Carefree, Cave Creek, Glendale, Peoria, Sun City, and other surrounding communities.
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