Buying new pond fish for your water garden is a fun and rewarding experience that typically happens in the spring thru early fall here in Phoenix. Although you’re excited to add finned friends to your pond, be sure to ask yourself the following questions when you’re at the pet shop:
Whatever type fish you choose to add to your pond, first and foremost you want to make sure they’re healthy. Don’t be shy about asking a few questions. In the end, you’ll be glad you took the time to purchase the right pond fish for your water feature. OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: You may have wondered if your pond fish sleep, or whether they have teeth. You might also contemplate why fish smell or how much koi cost. We've answered a few questions in this blog about koi: weird stuff you may have never pondered before, or maybe you have... Do koi have teeth?Koi encounter a lot of crunchy stuff as they sift through the mud and gravel on the bottom of a pond. An examination of the contents of the stomachs of wild carp reveals a mixture of plant and animal material, particularly crushed crayfish, snails, and worms. For this, koi need teeth to break up the food. They do indeed have rather large teeth located at the back of the throat behind their gill arches. The teeth are so far back that it would be difficult to reach, even if you stuck your finger in the mouth of a large koi. They don’t use their teeth aggressively or defensively, so you’re safe teaching them how to eat from your hand. Their teeth are used to smash the food items against a boney palate on the upper surface of the throat area. The teeth of koi come in three pairs, and they constantly develop and shed the crowns. You might be surprised to find these white, calcium rich crowns in the skimmer of your pond! The koi teeth look much like the molars of mammals such as cows and people. Do pond fish sleep?Fish do sleep, but not in the same manner as humans. Fish don’t have eyelids, so they can’t close their eyes. Instead, fish catch periods of rest by floating in one place or nestling into a cozy spot at the bottom of your pond. If you watch your fish quite a bit, you might have noticed this behavior from time to time. How can I tell if my koi are stressed?Koi show stress by blushing red in their fins and on their bodies. This is caused by a stressful environment, such as poor water quality. It’s their way of showing you that something is wrong. Why do fish smell?Fish smell strongly because of amino acids in their secretions and tissues, which is rich in sulfur and very unstable once the fish dies. The amino acids break down quickly into volatile amines like ethylamine, which conveys a strong odor. When you get fish slime on your hands, it begins to decay almost immediately. That’s when you smell ethylamine. Your nose is keen to pick up these unpleasant amines and it typically means that something is spoiled and unfit to eat. How many times can pond fish reproduce?Koi and goldfish can reproduce twice in one year. Normally, a koi or goldfish spawns once per year, but there are situations where koi or goldfish may spawn in the spring and then again in the fall if the temperature is unseasonably warm. Goldfish are more likely than koi to have two spawns per year. How expensive are koi?In rare instances, some koi have sold for over one million dollars! Many show koi are sold for five figures. A koi’s value is related to the rarity of its pattern, and this is determined by the intensity of its colors and the pattern in which those colors occur. The rarer the fish’s finery, the more the fish is worth. Ultimately, a koi is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Are fish diseases contagious to humans?There are a few diseases of pond fish which can be transmitted to a human who has an open wound exposed to the water. Various bacteria from koi are also infectious to humans and can be contracted via open wounds. So, the moral of the story is to keep any open wounds clear of the pond water. Is the correct term for a pregnant goldfish “twit”?The answer is yes! Over the last 40 years, in Australia and sometimes England, one common reference word for a gravid female goldfish has been some variant of the term “twit” or “twerp.” The proper term for a pregnant female fish is “gravid” with “twit” being the slang version. If you keep koi or goldfish in the dark, will they eventually turn white?A lot of young goldfish that start out orange or red will naturally turn white, even if kept in full sun. An example of this is the red cap oranda, which almost always turns pure white. Some fish will lose all their red, simply due to significant stress. Any fish kept away from full sunlight, will become paler in color. “A red fish will usually turn orange or even a brassy yellow without sunlight,” Fish expert Doc Johnson says. “Kept in the dark, the effect would be more significant. However, the fish would not turn white just because it was kept in the dark.” Do goldfish really have a three-second memory?Despite this popular belief, most studies have found the concept of fish having a three-second memory to be a myth. On the contrary, their memories can last as long as three months! Veterinarian Dr. Richmond Loh used levers to train goldfish how to get food, and they remembered these lessons for several months without reinforcement. There is also a man who trains a goldfish to do various tricks. Although they are easy and quick to train, the fish do not remember their routine for very long. Because they can only be trained when hungry, most training sessions are about 15 minutes long, up to twice per day. The talented goldfish wouldn’t remember the order of its routine from day to day, but when rewarded for certain behaviors, it could be trained to put on a 15-minute show with little more than finger cues and food as a reward. Other beliefs about koiThere are a few other beliefs about koi that are not scientifically proven to be true but would appear to hold merit based on the frequency of occurrence. For example, the more a fish costs, the more likely it is to become sick and possibly die, no matter how well you care for it. Of course, this is probably just Murphy’s Law. And then there’s the old tale that naming your fish will surely increase its odds of developing an illness or becoming prey to predators. It’s quite common to hear a pond owner warn against naming koi. They’ll be able to back up that claim with story after story. At the end of the day, pond fish are a joy to keep. And like anything else, the more you become familiar with fish care, the more you’ll succeed. For more information on Koi, check out Doctor Eric Johnson on other interesting questions about koi and goldfish. You might be surprised to find what you learn! OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: Did you know that fish possess body language? If you familiarize yourself with the good body language in fish, you’ll be able to also recognize bad fish body language. Then you’ll be able to diagnose and treat your fish before any illness or situation becomes too severe. Let’s first take a look at good body language in your pond fish:
Some examples of bad fish body language include:
Loss of appetiteWhen fish lose their appetite, numerous possibilities loom but without any additional symptoms, you could suspect some deterioration in water quality. In particular, warm water with low oxygen adversely affects fish appetites, which you’ll typically see during the hottest summer months. In ponds that are more than four feet deep and without water movement in the deeper areas, the oxygen levels sag, which can result in suffering fish. In either situation, adding an aerator to boost oxygen levels in the pond could be a simple fix. Fish may also lose their appetite if nitrogen is imbalanced. When the nitrate levels climb in established ponds, fish will lose their appetite. A quick water test will let you know if nitrate is to blame. If nitrate is ruled out, then it could be a parasite problem. You’ll also notice a loss in appetite when the pond water temperature falls below 68 degrees Fahrenheit, which is normal. Clamped finsWhen fish hold their fins close to their body, it’s a symptom of illness. Poor water quality and parasites are the likely culprits. Fish with clamped fins look like a fish with only a tail because all the other fins are pulled in close to the body. The fish may just rest on the bottom of the pond with its fins clamped. An assessment of water quality is the place to start. If nothing is found, the fish likely has a parasite that needs to be addressed (see how to identify and treat fish parasites). Resting on the bottomA common sign of illness is when the fish rests on the bottom of the pond. The most common cause of this bad fish body language is high water temperatures, high nitrates, and low oxygen levels. Parasites could also be the cause. Test the water, and if nothing is found, you’ve probably got a parasite issue. Laying on the bottomThis behavior is slightly different because the fish will lay on the bottom of the pond on its side. This is a sign of severe, life-threatening stress. Usually, very cold water is the cause of this bad body language. Water quality and overwhelming parasitism can also cause this. Stiff swimming with clamped finsStiff swimming is a serious sign in fish and almost always points to poor water quality, but the most common cause is parasitism, which is then swinging into a full-blown bacterial infection. Start by testing the water, and if nothing is found, a biopsy can be conducted to confirm the presence of parasites. You can also closely check the gills of your fish for signs of bacterial infection. Piping at the pond surfaceWhen fish are gasping at the surface of the pond, it’s highly illustrative of two things. Either the pond water doesn’t have enough oxygen in it, or the fish can’t get that oxygen because its gills are being wrecked by something. Adding an aerator typically alleviates this problem but if it doesn’t, you likely have a parasite problem. Less active or floating in waterLess activity isn’t necessarily a sign of illness, but you’ll want to keep some things in mind. Low oxygen levels can cause the fish to resist higher activity and foraging behaviors. This would be especially true if the listless less active fish are the larger ones whose oxygen demand is higher. Warm water carries less oxygen and if the pond is warm and there’s minimal water turnover from a waterfall or aerator, this could be a contributor. Adding a pond aerator will remedy this problem within four to six hours. If the fish becomes actively engaged again, you’ve solved the problem. If not, suspect the presence of a parasite. Flashing behaviorFlashing, or scratching, is bad body language when it’s common among your fish. It’s not uncommon to see a fish flash or scratch on the pond bottom of other submerged ornamentation. This isn’t considered a problem. However, if you see many fish scratching or flashing every hour, that would be bad body language and considered a problem. Flashing can be caused by several things, but your main suspects are the pH level of the pond or a parasite. Once you become familiar with good and bad body language in your pond fish, you’ll be better equipped to remedy any negative situation and provide them with a healthy, happy home. OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: One of the most confusing and intimidating aspects of caring for pond fish is the science of water quality and the pond nitrogen cycle. You may have heard horror stories about the constant monitoring of pond water just to make sure that the fish stay healthy. Unfortunately, these stories unnecessarily frighten people away from the joy of keeping fish. While pond water quality is important to the health of your fish, it doesn’t have to be complicated or scary. You don’t need to become obsessive with testing water quality, constantly adding chemicals, and doing things to make sure the water is pristine and perfect. There truly can be too much messing around with water. Keep it simple and your fish will thank you. Let’s look at the basic cycle of pond water and how it can affect your fish. The Importance of the Pond Nitrogen CycleThe nitrogen cycle is a natural process in which different types of beneficial bacteria break down compounds like ammonia and nitrite, reducing them to less harmful compounds like nitrate. This process occurs across three steps, from ammonia, to nitrite, to the final conversion into nitrate. The first process involves the accumulation of ammonia due to fish waste and decomposing material. As ammonia increases, Nitrosomonas bacteria start to consume it and break it down into nitrite. Once nitrite starts to accumulate, denitrifying bacteria break them down into nitrates. Nitrates are then removed from the system by plants, algae, or water changes. Because so many biological processes are required, it generally takes six to eight weeks for a pond system to run through the complete nitrogen cycle. Ammonia in the PondAmmonia is the main nitrogen waste from your fish, turtles, and other aquatic creatures, and functions as the start of nature’s nitrogen cycle. Did you know that ammonia is excreted partly by the fish’s kidneys, but mostly by the gills? This is relevant because it calls to mind the fact that if there is damage to a fish’s gills, the fish suffer more than just difficulty breathing. They could have trouble expelling their ammonia too. Constipation in any creature is not a happy place to be. High ammonia levels indicate that there are not enough beneficial nitrogen-reducing bacteria living in the pond yet. These bacteria proliferate over time, so ammonia problems are most common during the first six to eight weeks of a pond’s break-in period. Later, ammonia levels can climb again if the filter gets clogged up or a fish dies and starts decaying in the pond. You might see your fish “jumping” out of the pond when ammonia levels get high. This isn’t the only reason that fish jump, but it can be an indicator to just check for any issues. Control of ammonia involves reduced or suspended fish feedings, feeding low-protein food (33 percent or less), and/or upgrading your pond’s filtration. While water changes are the single best remedy for ammonia accumulations that threaten your fish, you can also use Ammonia Neutralizer. How Nitrite Affects Pond FishNitrite is produced from ammonia in the water by beneficial nitrogen-reducing bacteria. These bacteria cleave off ammonia’s hydrogen ions and replace them with oxygen. The pH of the water is then decreased by the release of these hydrogen ions. Your fish absorbs nitrites through the skin and gills. Inside the fish, nitrites bind the red blood cells, changing them from red to brown. Brown blood disease results from nitrite accumulations in the system. Nitrite is poisonous at levels as low as 0.1 ppm (parts per million), and fish that die from nitrite poisoning will commonly have flared gill covers. Nitrate: The Final ProductNitrate is the final product in the nitrogen cycle. Nitrites are broken down by another beneficial nitrogen-reducing bacteria and become nitrates. Plants and algae use nitrates, along with phosphates and iron, for cellular growth. When the nitrogen cycle is finished, you will see a sudden bloom of algae on the pond floor, or a green water explosion that obscures your view of the fish. This completion of the nitrogen cycle is typically a non-issue for fish health because fish aren’t harmed by acute or sudden exposure. However, with chronic, high levels of nitrate, you may notice weaker fish, slower growth, and increased illness overall. This is because high nitrate levels represent inferior water quality and this causes stress, making fish more vulnerable to disease. Nitrates should always be less than 80 ppm in an ornamental pond. To reduce nitrates, plants can be added, water changes can be performed, or algae growth can be encouraged. There are tremendous health benefits to a carpet of emerald-green algae on the pond bottom, the greatest of which is nutrition for the fish. This is why we always say that a little bit of algae is a good thing. Here at The Pond Gnome, we call it Pond Patina. Testing the pH of Your PondIn Arizona, this will drive you crazier than being put in a round room and told to sit in the corner. Our pH is very high, and oftentimes comes out of the tap at 9.0! Yep, we have very hard water here. Honestly, we don’t recommend worrying about or trying to affect the pH in your pond. But if you must… Testing water pH is simply a measurement of the free hydrogen ions (H+) in the pond. It is measured on a scale of one to fourteen with anything below seven being acidic and anything above seven being alkaline. The pH required for aquatic life ranges between 5.5 and 8.0. Koi and goldfish can tolerate a very high pH measurement. Some pond owners spend a lot of time trying to bring down the pH level, but this is unnecessary unless there is also ammonia accumulation in the pond. The toxicity of ammonia is influenced by pH, so at higher pH values, ammonia is more toxic. Below a pH of 7.2, most ammonia is ionized to ammonium and is far less toxic. The pH level in ponds impacts fish in several ways. First, if it is too low, a condition inside the fish called acidosis results. Symptoms are a loss of appetite and then production of excess slime, as well as isolation and resting on the bottom of the pond. This is followed by a streaking of the fins, and then death. If the pH is too high (over 10.0), the fish will produce excess slime and gasp at the surface of the water. This condition, called alkalosis, is hard to rapidly reverse once it occurs. A Word About Chlorine and ChloramineChlorine and chloramines are generally added to tap water by municipal water suppliers to make it safe to drink. However, these same compounds are toxic to fish and bacteria and can kill them if exposed for too long. Basically, the chlorine and chloramines burn and destroy the gills of the fish. De-chlorinators such as Pond Detoxifier remove and neutralize these chemicals and should be used whenever more than 10 to 15 percent of the pond’s total water volume is being added. The good news is that these chemicals evaporate out of the water fairly quickly on their own. The Final VerdictThe only way to know for sure what your pond is up to is to test the water for harmful compounds or changing parameters. There is no need to perform regular testing, however, especially if your fish level is low. We recommend stocking your pond with no more than one inch of fish per 10 gallons of water. You might want to test the water if you see your fish behaving or looking differently. A quick test can help you identify your next steps for encouraging a healthy environment for your finned friends. Granted, it may seem intimidating at first, but once you understand how to measure and control pond water factors, it becomes easy and starts to feel like second nature. The bottom line – healthy water equals healthy fish. OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY: Who doesn’t love Koi in their pond? They’re beautiful and friendly, providing glimmers of color as they weave their way beneath and between the lily pads. Certainly, they deserve their rightful place in a tranquil water garden. But what about other options? An array of pond fish is just waiting to call your pond their home. GoldfishFantail Goldfish are perfect for your pond: resilient and able to handle all different kinds of water. For the newbie pond owner, goldfish are a great choice for getting started with fish-keeping. Several varieties of goldfish are available, from comets (plain orange and white) to the exotics like ranchus and bubble-eyes. Exotic GoldfishIncluded in this showy category are lion heads, telescopes, black moors, orandas, ranchus, and ryukins. The single most distinguishing characteristic of this group as a whole, is their round, bulbous abdomens. OrandaWith this exotic group, extra caution should be taken if they are going to be placed outdoors. They’re not as hardy as some of the other goldfish. This is especially true of the adults of these varieties. ShubunkinsThe shubunkin is a type of single-tailed, long-bodied goldfish that originated in China. There are two different types of shubunkins. One has a long tail fin, with broad tail fin lobes that are rounded on the end. The other one looks more like a common goldfish, with a short tail fin. Bred mainly for their coloring, shubunkins often have a red, black, and sky-blue coloring, sort of like a calico. The most valuable of the shubunkins are mostly blue with strong accents of white and red, and the overall pattern sparingly flecked with black. In fact, when blessed with a white, black, and orange pattern, some may resemble baby Koi but are far from it. They are different in size and markings. Most notably, they lack barbells (whiskers of sorts) that are found on Koi. Shubunkins are hardy fish that can survive sweltering summers and can grow up to 14 inches in a minimum 180-gallon pond. SarassasSarassas are very similar to shubunkins in that they both have a similar body shape; however, they do not quite reach the same size as their larger shubunkin counterparts. The sarassa features a white base color and brilliant red highlights. It is believed that they came from a cross between the red cap oranda and the comet goldfish and are sometimes referred to as the poor man’s Koi. Amazingly, the brilliant red of the true sarassa is a lifelong proposition and the fish are very enjoyable. Uncontrolled breeding of the sarassa will yield more and more brown fish until the pond population has returned to unselected comet and brown goldfish ancestry. OrfesThere are also some fish, which you may have never heard of, that would make great pond fish. Orfes, for example, call many a backyard pond home. In its native habitat, the Danube River, the golden orfe is a dark silvery color, but received its golden color when bred in Europe. The bright orange color is very attractive, especially since they characteristically swim near the surface of most ponds with the rest of their group. This is helpful because their presence near the top of the pond can also encourage Koi and other goldfish to visit the surface of the water as well. One thing to keep in mind is that golden orfe grow extremely fast. A 2 to 3-inch golden orfe can quickly reach sizes of 2 to 2½ feet! While golden orfe feed mostly on insect larvae, worms, and fallen insects, they are derived from the predatory side (in their original silver color) and could pose a risk to the rest of the aquatic life, although it is unlikely. Orfe are highly sensitive to fish medications of most kinds, and extreme care must be taken. CatfishCatfish are another popular fish seen in the water garden. They are commonly sold as scavengers to help clean up the pond, but they really don’t do that much of it. Caution should be taken with these fish because they can become quite large in a short period of time. When they become large, they can cause trouble because they may start eating whatever they can fit in their mouth – including other fish! Learning about FishGetting to know the background of the pond fish you plan to keep as pets is vital to their survival and your sanity. By knowing their defining characteristics, you will have a thorough understanding of how the fish will interact in your pond with other fish, plants, and aquatic life. Other Fish You May Want to Research:
So, who is ready to “dive” into the wonderful world of pond fish beyond Koi? Don’t have a pond yet? We can help with that! OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY:
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The Pond Gnome offers Pond Design, Pond Construction, Pond Maintenance, Pond Remodeling, Pond Replacement, and Pond Cleaning Services for the Greater Phoenix Metropolitan area, including the cities of Phoenix, Scottsdale, Paradise Valley, Carefree, Cave Creek, Glendale, Peoria, Sun City, and other surrounding communities.
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